Garrett GT2052V for my lucida

[MAKH]

Hi Clint,
Thanks for the information.
By the way very soon I will send you the pics of the turbo I have on my 3C-TE. Its bigger than the CT9. Dont know what turbo is it. Nothing written on the turbo as well.
Another small one.... My car while moving slowly around 5 to 20 KPH, I get jerks from the engine. Then I have to half press the clutch pedal to stop the jerks by reving up the engine. What might be causing it?
one thing thou, I have an A/T ECU installed with a manual gearbox. The M/T ECU is not available here for some weird reason.

[ClintJ]

Originally Posted by MAKH

Hi Clint,
Thanks for the information.
By the way very soon I will send you the pics of the turbo I have on my 3C-TE. Its bigger than the CT9. Dont know what turbo is it. Nothing written on the turbo as well.
Another small one.... My car while moving slowly around 5 to 20 KPH, I get jerks from the engine. Then I have to half press the clutch pedal to stop the jerks by reving up the engine. What might be causing it?
one thing thou, I have an A/T ECU installed with a manual gearbox. The M/T ECU is not available here for some weird reason.

Did the engine run fine with the standard turbo?
Or has it been a combo of the auto ecu and turbo??
If the turbo has a larger turbine and compressor than the CT9 then it should be ok but it is possible that the turbine might be to small and the compressor to big and compressor surge could be occuring causing the surging in power but if the turbo is standard then Im guessing this isnt the case..
How much boost is it making??? if its past 11~12psi then you might be experiencing boost cut. This will cut the fuel back making the car surge..

Clint

[MAKH]

Hi Clint,
The turbo is the standard that comes on the 3C-TE vertical built engines.Larger than the standard CT9 though. I did tweak the boost controller by moving it to and fro. I will check the turbo boost soon and tell you. And I do get the fuel cuts on the highway, not sue if its the fuel cut or not.
But another thought that comes to my mind is:
On turbo engine when you initially step on it you have to wait for the boost to be completed and then you get the car moving. That raw pedal before it takes off works with the auto transmission but not the manual because the later clutches immediately on release of clutch pedal.
Guess what I will give it a try with a manual ECU if I am able to find one. Lets see.

[ClintJ]

Originally Posted by MAKH

Hi Clint,
The turbo is the standard that comes on the 3C-TE vertical built engines.Larger than the standard CT9 though. I did tweak the boost controller by moving it to and fro. I will check the turbo boost soon and tell you. And I do get the fuel cuts on the highway, not sue if its the fuel cut or not.
But another thought that comes to my mind is:
On turbo engine when you initially step on it you have to wait for the boost to be completed and then you get the car moving. That raw pedal before it takes off works with the auto transmission but not the manual because the later clutches immediately on release of clutch pedal.
Guess what I will give it a try with a manual ECU if I am able to find one. Lets see.

Hi Mohammad
All the gearbox tells the computer is vehicle speed for shifting the box.
From what I said before this sounds like boostcut or fuelcut (the same thing).
When you put your foot on the clutch to stop you unload the motor and boost will fall off.
try this before you chase up the manual ecu. Drive it nicely, does it cutout?
Then slowly increase the throttle when on the highway and try to guess how much throttle % you are using.

Of course if you had the boost gauge then you could say with confidience whats happening.

Also try this, remove the boost hose that connects to the map sensor mounted under the passenger seat in the engine compartment and take it for a full throttle run. The car should seem weak but will revout with no cutout occuring.
This tells us that boostcut might be occuring due to too much boost.
As said a boost guage will tell all.

Clint

[MAKH]

HI clint,
Thanks for the explainiation. I got it all.
I will go out to the market(my favorite used parts market). There are plenty of boost gauges available there. The poor people dont even know what are those dials.
But one thing, a boost has just the electrical connections or a rubber tube from the inlet manifold as well. the ones I have seen there are without an input for a pressure pipe.
Does this kind of gauge connects to the map sensor or some where else?

[ClintJ]

Originally Posted by MAKH

HI clint,
Thanks for the explainiation. I got it all.
I will go out to the market(my favorite used parts market). There are plenty of boost gauges available there. The poor people dont even know what are those dials.
But one thing, a boost has just the electrical connections or a rubber tube from the inlet manifold as well. the ones I have seen there are without an input for a pressure pipe.
Does this kind of gauge connects to the map sensor or some where else?

There is a rubber hose line that comes from the inlet manifold just in front of the throttle body. This line makes its way accross the back of the engine and goes to the map sensor under the passenger seat inside the engine bay.

You can break into that line anywhere.
Like I said the quick test would be to dissconnect this line and take it for a drive whilst its disconnected. If you still have the cutout occuring then the problem is somewhere else.
I pick up my engine tomorrow.
Clint

[captain emina]

hi clint
when you did the sr20 det turbo conversion what was involved as its somthing im looking at doing in the next month or so
any info would be much appreciated

[ClintJ]

Originally Posted by captain emina

hi clint
when you did the sr20 det turbo conversion what was involved as its somthing im looking at doing in the next month or so
any info would be much appreciated

I used the rb20det turbo.. I made a custom stainless manifold as seen on head mods thread in the performance sect.
The rb20det turbo has the larger T3 turbine foot and is superiorer to the bush bearing turbos from the SR20 T25/T28 turbo's.
the rb25det turbo is another good choice. The compressor is larger but made from a much lighter plastic material so it should spool up quickly.

You will need to make a different outlet for the compressor to suit the SR/RB outlets. They have a 3 bolt flange on the outlet.
You will need to fabricate a new pipe that comes from the compressor outlet to the front of the engine to the intercooler.
You will need to make up a new oil feed for the turbo, fabricate a new oil return.
Fabricate a new dump pipe from the turbine housing outlet..

the T25/T28 from the CA18 and SR20 are ok turbo's but I like the larger T3 turbine on the rb20det and the rb25det.

I like the larger turbine that can respond as it will allow the car to cruise off boost allowing better fuel consuption. A smaller turbine will produce at highway speed almost all the time.

The .org site has now moved on. It did house my chronicles of turbocharger setups on my van.. I have tried about 6 or 7 variations.
The rb20det turbo has been the best so far except for not enough boost below 2300rpm. I can get 8psi at 2000rpm.

Clint

[captain emina]

thanks for that clint, big help
is the end result worth it? is it noticably different when driving, especially on hills or with load?

[ClintJ]

Originally Posted by captain emina

thanks for that clint, big help
is the end result worth it? is it noticably different when driving, especially on hills or with load?

YouTube - Lucida 2.2TDI V3

This is my van, auto 4WD. Count the timer on the video and see how long it takes to reach 100Km/hr.
My first engine when I got my van was cactus so having a reference point to compare with for me didnt really exist.
Others from the previous .org site told me about 15sec was the norm.

I have to tell myself that it is worth it otherwise why would I continue to what I have done previously all be it a little be differently or improved.

Clint