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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Junior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 8
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I did check out Bob Murphy, as recommended by Paul9, and he quoted £170 for the part but suggested that I might be able to get a complete turbo unit from ebay for about £60. I've checked ebay but haven't found anything yet. There is an importer at Greenham Common I might check out plus a website that deals in breakers yards which might be worth trying. | |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Club Member ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Cambridge
Posts: 187
![]() | remove the undertray under the driver's side - half a dozen 12mm bolts - you should be able to see it from there. You can do it without a jack, but it may be easier to get it up in the air for more working space. If you do, use stands after jacking it, or good strong ramps (you don't want an esti on your head, they are nearer two tons than one). You only need to change the actuator, which is the little can on the end of the cranked rod (will be clearer once you're under there). I think there's a full tutorial in the member's area. |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Junior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 8
![]() | Decided to take the car out to a village garage and get the turbo fitted. Good job I did as the old one was rusted on the car. Took them 4 hours but he only charged me for 2.5. Seems to go like a dream now but I haven't had the opportunity to take it onto a fast road yet. Will give it a good run over the bank holiday weekend. Thanks to everyone for their comments. Enabled me to take charge of the situation. |
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 267
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| | #16 (permalink) | |
| Junior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 8
![]() | Quote:
I will be rehanging the curtains shortly so it would be interesting to see what happens when I order all the clips etc. | |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| Administrator ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: under my bus
Posts: 465
![]() | the actuator is pictured in the photograph, usually the rod sticks so try moving it to see if its free, if it is remove the rubber pipe on the diaphragm & blow or suck, if you can easily then the diaphragm has gone ![]() |
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| Junior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 8
![]() | I ended up replacing the whole turbo which, as it turned out, was the right thing in my case as the turbo was completely rusted. I bought the unit from a specialist breaker who had it posted to me. If you decide to go that way, I can give you details. I got a village garage to fit it for me and as it was rusted on, it took them 4 hours but they didn't charge me the full price. Having got the photo of the part, it might be worth having a look to see if the rest is OK before deciding. The difference in performance made the outlay in my case, fully worth it especially as I will be towing a caravan next weekend. |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| Junior Member ![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2
![]() | have done as u suggest and found the rod easyish to move and I assume the the other end of the rod is the wastgate? which moves fine. The acutuator when I blow through it i can feel air coming from the little hole at the bottom-no resistance to suck or blow so I take it the actuator is stuffed?its off the car and just have to find one in New Zealand. Is there anything else I have to check while in this area of the vehicle? nearby is a steel pipe and hose going to it which looks a bit weepy with diesel or oil. Any more input from the experts would be appreciated. Now I have estblished what the actuator is doing and wastgate sems to be free can i be sure the turbo is ok? cheers |
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