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#1 User is offline   msu 

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 08:33 PM

Hi,

Brakes of my Lucida were a bit spongy and uneven for some time. Today I replaced all four brake pads and sprayed copper grease on sliding pins. While pushing the pistons, I loosen the bleed valve to remove excess fluid.

Two problems were found during this service. Front driver’s side calliper piston was very stiff. I pushed it forward and a backward a couple of times and now it seems OK. Driver’s side rear sliding pin (top one) was badly seized. I freed it and sprayed it with copper grease.

Now the braking seems more effective and even but the brake pedal is still spongy and does not come high especially when the engine is on (does not sink to floor either). When the engine is off, repetitive pedalling does make the pedal stiff but as soon as engine is started, it becomes soft again. When I bleed the system only brake fluid seems coming out with no air bubble.

Any thoughts?
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#2 User is offline   lucifreak 

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 08:43 PM

 hey buddy,it could be time to flush through the fluid with new and do a full job on the calipers,with a rebuild kit,i did mine a few weeks ago and it was quite easy.the fluid will become contaminated with moisture over time,this moisture will gather behind the piston and cause corrosion which over time will cause it sieze.
I take it when you were bleeding it through you kept an eye the levels? especially so if youve fitted new pads as the new thickness will push fluid back up to the header to accomodate the new pads


the bleeding and flushing through is the same as any car,there is help in the garage for both jobs i think.

As for the brake pedal test you need to set everything up as for the road,ensure fluid level is good,and is bled of air,sit in the car and pump until hard [ooeer!] then keep foot on the pedal whilst you start the engine and if your vac is ok the pedal should sink down a way.If not then you have vac problems. 

This post has been edited by lucifreak: 13 March 2010 - 08:48 PM

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#3 User is offline   msu 

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 08:49 PM

View Postlucifreak, on 13 March 2010 - 08:43 PM, said:

hey buddy,it could be time to flush through the fluid with new and do a full job on the calipers,with a rebuild kit,i did mine a few weeks ago and it was quite easy.the fluid will become contaminated with moisture over time,this moisture will gather behind the piston and cause corrosion which over time will cause it sieze.

the bleeding and flushing through is the same as any car,there is help in the garage for both jobs i think.

As for the brake pedal test you need to set everything up as for the road,ensure fluid level is good,sit in the car and pump until hard [ooeer!] then keep foot on the pedal whilst you start the engine and if your vac is ok the pedal should sink down a way.If not then you have vac problems.


Vac seems OK as the hardened pedal sink down when the engine is started.
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#4 User is offline   msu 

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 08:59 PM

View Postlucifreak, on 13 March 2010 - 08:43 PM, said:


I take it when you were bleeding it through you kept an eye the levels? especially so if youve fitted new pads as the new thickness will push fluid back up to the header to accomodate the new pads



Thanks for your input. Since the brake is now applying pretty evenly, I assume that the faulty piston is working OK (also I can move the wheel a little bit by hand when the brake is off). As I removed any excess (while pushing the piston) through bleed valve, the level of brake fluid remained practically same. I did, however added a little bit of fresh brake fluid to compensate for any visual loss.
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#5 User is offline   lucifreak 

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 09:00 PM

Theres a thread here caliper kit about discs but with links to the company i used for my caliper kit on ebay,was good quality and had everything you need.The thing is by getting  it moving like you have its just a TEMPORARY fix and will return copperslip or not.

For more information have search of the garage and forum history,other members will be by soon to.

Are you sure the hoses arent split out and into the calipers? have a good look as thesplit could be small,this would make it spongy to.

Also have you checked the  rears? hoses and pistons for leaks?

This post has been edited by lucifreak: 13 March 2010 - 09:04 PM

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#6 User is offline   coughlanstephen 

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Posted 25 April 2010 - 08:43 PM

If you have a brake pedal that is pulsating almost as though the ABS is working when it shouldn't be? Whats goin on..
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#7 User is offline   buffallobob 

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Posted 25 April 2010 - 08:59 PM

View Postcoughlanstephen, on 25 April 2010 - 08:43 PM, said:

If you have a brake pedal that is pulsating almost as though the ABS is working when it shouldn't be? Whats goin on..

You will have distorted discs
bob
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#8 User is offline   coughlanstephen 

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Posted 25 April 2010 - 09:11 PM

View Postbuffallobob, on 25 April 2010 - 08:59 PM, said:

You will have distorted discs
bob


thanks bob kinda feared that. would there be any need to get them done quickly could I be doing other damage by leaving them alone for a while.... the pulsating isn't that bad... thanks.

This post has been edited by coughlanstephen: 25 April 2010 - 09:11 PM

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